Back on my own again, I finally reached Atbara, stock up and head for the 450km stretch of desert to Kassala, following in Ted Simons’s tire marks.

I fell a lot, hurt myself a bit, got lost in a sandstorm and fought against soft sand. But eventually made it, a hugely satisfying experience. It was with some reluctance that I rode to Ethiopia, such were the good times in Sudan.

You can read a big story about the desert crossing in an additional post below this one, but it is too long for the blog really, so just if you want to read it and have time.

Reaching Ethiopia I really considered myself “in Africa”, sunburnt grassy mountains, green trees and birdsong I could not explain. I rode to Gondar, expecting the worst – I’d read the stories of a stone throwing hateful people – was greeted with friendly faces and waves and, stopping at a water pump to stock up was greeted by a happy group of women and girls, fetching the household water, 20kg balanced on their head or strapped on their backs with rope, or whatever they could find, too much for a 10 year old girl I thought, but they seem happy. Perhaps Ethiopia will be OK?