Monday, 13 October 2008
In the shadow of the Eiger

The highlight has to have been Grindlewald, where I spent the last three days, and did two big hikes in the mountains. I have read a lot about this area and to actually be here was just unbelievable, for me anyway, plus it turned out to be just I had imagined as I was worried it would be some massive, sprawling city in the mountains filled with bustle and stress. Luckily it wasn't, has only 4000 population, but I assume the tourist population is much, much higher, even in low season.
The first day I decided to hike up to the Eiger Sletscher (glacier) (which I have probably spelt incorrectly), which is about 2320m or so. On the way I met Sarah, a pretty, blond Swiss girl, who works as nurse in Bern, though originally from Zurich. I did well to keep up with Sarah! She was great company on a spectacular hike, she fed me chocolate and even bought me ice cream at "Eigerland", (also known as Kleine Scheidegg, think Disneyland on a mountain... a train station, restaurants and souvenir shops a little way down from the glacier, though having said that I was glad for the ice cream! Stupidly I didn't get Sarah's contact details - so if you are reading this, perhaps send me your e-mail address!
The next day I decide to hike up to "First" (2100m ish) and "Faulhorn"(2680m) and in the process "Bussalp" (1800m), by the time I reached Bussalp, which came first along the route, I was really tired, and 600m below Faulhorn I struggling to move, 10 steps, stop, 10 steps, stop, part of the sole of my shoe rips off, I lose the trail and can eventually see people on it; MILES away. I carve my own path and make it to the top, I want another ice cream like yesterday and more besides, but there is no such luck here!
I take a short walk over to "First" and then down, down, down to Grindlewald, as soon as I reach the tent my legs become seized and my left knee clicks in pain. I sit there cooking my lovely pasta and coffee, legs becoming ever stiffer, cow bells chiming a merry tune and I think happily over the past days, I think about how I could live in Switzerland and will be very sad to leave Grindelwald. Though I also realise just how lucky I am.
I know also that the Middle East and Africa loom ever closer and wonder if I can put off heading that way any longer!! Though I am delayed by my carnet (a document I need to enter Africa), another story in itself, hopefully I will pick it up near Venice and then there is nothing stopping me, except all the problems I know that will come!
PS nescafe coffee costs about £7. Absurd.